Running with the Romans
- Patrick Young
- Aug 19
- 3 min read
This series explores threads of German heritage beyond the Capital Region of New York. Click here for a full list of all articles in the series.
Today, the banks of the Rhein are a place to sit in the sun, enjoy the breeze, and watch the river flow by. Two thousand years ago, however, this same river marked the very edge of the known world. From the Netherlands down into present-day Germany, the Rhein formed one of the most heavily fortified borders of the Roman Empire. Take a run with me along this ancient frontier, and explore what remains of Rome’s might in the city of Neuss, Germany.
The river provided an excellent natural barrier, but the Romans did not always stay behind it. In the year 9 AD, three entire legions were annihilated in the Teutoburg Forest, ending Roman hopes of expanding deep into Germania. From then on, Rome’s goal was simple: hold the Rhein, and keep the Germans out.
The Roman Limes
Stretching nearly 400 kilometers, the Limes was the strongest border the world had yet seen. It was more than a wall – it was an entire defensive system of fortresses, watchtowers, roads, civilian settlements, and legionary bases. The Rhein frontier not only secured the empire from invasion but also protected the trade routes and shipping that were its lifeline.
One of the strongest points along this frontier was the Roman camp at Neuss, directly across the river from today’s Düsseldorf. Here, remnants of the Roman presence are still visible along the Kölner Straße.
A Run Through History
Begin your route at the Kleinkastell am Reckberg. In Roman times, this was the main road from Cologne to Xanten and on to the North Sea. A Roman watchtower once stood here on a small hill, guarding traffic along the road. The fort itself measured 33 by 35 meters, and the reconstructed tower still rises today as a reminder of Rome’s reach.
Continue north along the road and you’ll encounter reconstructions of monuments unearthed along this stretch. One is the gravestone of Tiberius, a Roman soldier who died at age 55 and served 28 years in the Roman Army. Further along, original stones mark the site of Neuss’s main Roman camp, established in 16 AD. This fortress housed nearly 10,000 soldiers – legionaries and auxiliaries – until the 4th century. Around it grew a bustling community of tradesmen, craftsmen, sutlers, and civilians. Vast cemeteries surrounded the camp, one of which held a mysterious discovery.
Top left & top center - The Roman Watchtower
Top right and bottom left - The grave of the Roman soldier Tiberius.
Bottom center - Tiberius Street, named for the fallen Roman soldier.
Bottom right - Original stones from the Roman fortress in Neuss.
Artist renderings of the Neuss military camp.
The Blood Pit of Neuss
In the 1950s, excavations at Gepa-Platz revealed a puzzle of overlapping remains: a Roman military graveyard dating to 10–14 AD, later overbuilt by wooden and stone foundations, and eventually, by the 3rd century, a house with a stone basement. Archaeologists believe this final structure was used for cultic purposes, earning it the nickname “Blutgrube” – the Blood Pit.
Sacred stones and religious debris were uncovered here: a broken statue of Jupiter, a female deity with child, oil flasks, incense bottles, and 42 coins. The space was far too small for a burial chamber and lacked the mortar for a bath. The strongest theory is that it served as a site of the Kybele cult, a mystery religion that spread across the Roman world.
There is a building that protects and houses the Blood Pit. In order to enter, you need to call the neighboring house to obtain a key.
In Roman Footsteps
Neuss was once a vital stronghold on the frontier of an empire. Today, its streets and monuments invite you to experience that history not just in books or museums, but under your feet. A run along this stretch of the Rhein is more than exercise – it’s a way to retrace the steps of legionaries, civilians, and worshippers who once stood guard at the edge of Rome.
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